Off the Pass – Mallorca / Paris / Saint-Tropez
A bi-monthly travel guide for those of us who plan entire days around what we’re eating next. And this one is a hefty one, so buckle up.
Travel means everything to me. And when it’s food-focused? Even better. I just landed back from two weeks in Europe, this time with a toddler in tow. Let me tell you, traveling with a little one is its own kind of Olympic sport: planning around naps, hauling gear, and somehow keeping everyone alive, fed, and smiling. I’ll save the full parenting play-by-play for a section below…
My husband and I usually plan our trips around three things: food, friends who will take us in, and any excuse for a good event. This time, the anchor was a wedding in Mallorca (plus a cozy apartment to crash in). We’ve been before, so my list of recs is strong.
From there, the universe did me a favor…my best friend and his boyfriend just happened to be in Paris. So yes, your girl snuck away for three glorious nights. Paris is my forever favorite city. It never gets old, and the food? Always, always divine. And, might be an unpopular opinion but I think Parisians are the best.
We wrapped the trip up in Saint-Tropez. Bougie as hell, sure, but our four days were mostly modest with just the right sprinkle of fancy.
The whole trip was everything: we learned, we ate, we drank, we lost sleep, we lived on the beach. Keep reading for recs and my (very modest) take on all three stops.
Mallorca
Mallorca is easy and familiar. Mountains sliding into turquoise water. Markets fishmonger that will cook on spot and produce stands heavy with figs and tomatoes. The greatest jamon and soppressata there is to offer. Late mornings (sleepless baby), sunny afternoons, paired with late fish lunches, obviously a siesta…then tapas that start around 10 and of course Rioja. The island just pulls you into its rhythm, simple, sunny, full of flavor
Quick Bite: QuitaPenas, Valldemossa
A no frill teeny tiny tapas restaurant in a 200 year old house! If you didn't know to look for it you might pass it. QuitaPenas specializes in Pa amb Oli which means bread with oil and gently rubbed with garlic, local “ramallet” tomatoes and olive oil made in the Sierra de Tramuntana. QuitaPenas does this but to a whole new level.
My order: We kicked things off with the Giadineria veggie starter. It didn’t look like much at first glance, but it packed a ton of flavor. Then came the XXL order of toasts/pambolis: thick, crusty on the outside, soft on the inside, bread topped with all the good stuff. They arrived warm and overflowing with variety: two kinds of Spanish ham, figs with honey, soppressata, cheese, zucchini with olives, and artichokes with tomato. Absolute heaven. The service was kind and felt like being at someone’s grandmother’s house, cozy and familiar.
Sit-Down Bite: La Gallega, Port d'Andratx
This spot isn’t the best restaurant in Mallorca, but it has its own kind of magic. We stumbled on it last year. The ambiance, the food, the street music — it all just clicked. So of course we went back on this trip, almost exactly a year later.
Last year we sat across from one of the most striking women I’ve ever seen. Long blonde hair, perfectly blown out. A casual but elegant dress, sandals, and diamond-forward jewelry that pulled everything together. I clocked her at about 78ish years old. I was so taken by her that I had to tell her how beautiful she was. She told me she was from Germany and had been here for 22 years.
This time we sat down, ordered wine, and dove into a seafood-heavy spread: razor clams, scallops (twice, because Mars ate half the first round), Spanish olives and bread, a salt-baked dorade, and a big plate of jamón. Halfway through the meal, the same fabulous woman appeared and was seated in the exact same spot as last year. It felt like a celebrity sighting. I was so happy. We hugged, she remembered us and Mars, and left saying, “See you next year.”
Drink: La Residencia, Belmond Hotel, Deiá
If you’ve been to a Belmond, you know the drill, they never miss and always impress. But this one was extra special thanks to the jaw-dropping views over Deiá. And Deiá really is that dreamy. A hilltop village tucked into the Tramuntana Mountains, close to the coast, draped in olive trees — it feels like another world compared to the rest of the island.
Now, full disclosure: I did not stay at La Residencia. Maybe one day. At about 3k a night, bless you and your financial status if you can swing it. Instead, I parked myself at the hotel’s outdoor bar, which felt like the ultimate European breakfast patio. Rolling hills in front of me, a breeze that flirted with the olive branches, even the bees seemed to be vibing.
I ordered a champagne cocktail (leaning into my bougie moment), while Garry went with a glass of Verán from Finca Biniagual.
Side Plate: Mercat de Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina is one of those markets that has it all: gleaming fresh fish, every Spanish delicacy you can imagine, piles of produce, and bartop spots where you can sit and eat right in the middle of the action. The energy is lively, local, and a little addictive. And believe it or not, I had some of the best sushi I’ve had in a long time here.
Where we ate:
Arume Sushi Bar & Dim Sum | Oysters Bar & Caviar
Where we shopped:
Maria de Porreres Fruit & Vegetables
Fausto Izquierdo Select Charcuterie
Paris
Paris needs no intro. If you’ve been, you get it. If you haven’t, book the flight already. Fall is my favorite time to go, with May and early June as close seconds. And don’t be intimidated by Parisians, they’re basically New Yorkers, just French, smoking, and rightfully smug about their wine and food. Sorry, but I said it.
All that aside, this Paris getaway was my first time properly away from Mars for three whole nights. ALL THE FEELS.
Quick Bite: Marché couvert de Passy, Passy
This market is a bit out of the way, tucked all the way in the 16th, but I have such a soft spot for it. When I lived there while attending Le Cordon Bleu, I’d swing by before or after class for a quick bite — maybe a slice of pâté (foie gras was my favorite) with cheese and a baguette, or a little fish grilled right on the spot. The neighborhood is quiet and residential, the kind of place where everyone knows everyone. I didn’t make it there this trip, but it deserves a shoutout.
Sit-Down Bite: Les Enfants Du Marche, Le Marais
The most electric bistro counter sits right in the middle of the iconic Marché des Enfants Rouges. The food? Honestly, beyond words. The menu flips daily and always throws something I’ve never seen, never heard of, but instantly crave. The team behind the counter is wild, loud, hilarious, and somehow keeps the chaos beautiful. If you drink, good luck walking out sober. This is hands down my favorite spot in Paris and a non-negotiable stop every single time I’m there.
PHOTOS
Drink: I have two…..
Folderol, Le Marais
They only serve wine and ice cream. Need I say more?
Habiba Wine, Le Marais
Greek-owned, stainless-steel everything, and a suave, cooler-than-cool owner who opened a wine bar and then actually sits down at every table. Every pour comes from his own vines in Greece, and somehow, each bottle was better than the last. Yes, we tried all five.
Perfect little bites landed with each round. It’s a true hole in the wall—literally carved into stone and absolutely the kind of place I’ll keep going back to.
Side Plate: The Parisian Vintage
My most favorite vintage shop in Paris. It's small. It's luxurious. It's such a wonderful selection. It's where you buy that forever piece you weren't looking for.
On this trip I bought exactly that. A tailored French leather jacket that practically fused to me the second I buttoned it. I was half-distracted at checkout when it caught my eye. I tried it on. Freaked out. Told myself it was way too much (it was). Took it off. Then, of course, put it back on again…
She’s now hanging pretty in my closet.
Saint-Tropez
Saint-Tropez is a mix of the most bougie chaos and laid-back charm. The port is lined with yachts double the size of NYC apartment buildings, café umbrellas everywhere, and rosé flowing like tap water. Days are slow. Beach clubs, long seafood lunches, swims that accidentally turn into naps. Nights are the opposite. Dinners that appear as fashion shows and music spilling into the streets. What I love is the contrast: underneath all the sparkle, it’s still a little fisherman village at heart. One night you’re eating moules by the dock, the next you’re in a scene straight out of a Slim Aarons photo.
Overall, Saint-Tropez is a little too bougie for my taste, but it might also be one of the most beautiful places in the world. And if you know where to look, there are ways to experience it without all the gloss. I love visiting any part of the South of France.
Quick Bite: Cafe De L'Ormeau, Ramatuelle
A classic French café at its best. Flaky croissants, strong coffee, service so slow it almost feels intentional, overpriced everything, and the perfect mix of locals and tourists to watch. It’s right in the center of town and everything about it is picture-perfect. My order: 2 croissants, 2 fresh grapefruit juices, 1 cappuccino, and bread with jam
Sit-Down Bite: Jais, Ramatuelle
WOW. This spot blew me away. Wildly expensive — we’re talking 95 euros for a crudo appetizer expensive… but every dish was worth it. Wildly delicious. Every single plate hit. I knew they had a location in Paris with glowing reviews, but since they just opened in Saint-Tropez, it felt like the perfect time to try. Aside from the bill shock, everything was divine.
Our order: Traditional pâté with foie gras and pistachio, Peeled blue lobster salad, Creamy linguine with trout roe and lime zest, Beef Fillet, Strong Jus and Homemade Fries, and an incredible parmesan mushroom starter and the insane 95 euro crudo - both specials written on a chalkboard, so unfortunately that’s all you’re getting for a description.
Drink: Rose… obviously.
You can’t drive a mile without passing a vineyard. They’re lush, beautiful, and turning out some of the best rosé you’ll ever drink. When we wanted a glass or a bottle, we skipped the wine shop and just pulled into a vineyard to buy straight from the source. The grapes this time of year are insanely juicy, ready to be harvested any day now.
Side Plate: A run that turned into a hike on the coast
Dessert: A dessert you can only purchase in Saint Tropez (my gut says you can buy this in Paris, but you shouldn’t). Tarte Tropézienne. HOLY COW, she is light, she is fluffy, she is heaven. It is a sweet brioche cake filled with a light, creamy mixture of pastry cream and whipped cream, flavored with orange blossom water and topped with pearl sugar. Created in 1955 by confectioner Alexandre Micka
Traveling with a Toddler
Traveling with a toddler should honestly be an Olympic sport. From packing an arsenal of distractions for the plane, to timing naps just right so you can sneak in lunch before siesta, to surviving jet lag and the collective lack of sleep, it’s a full event. And then, just when you’re ready to wave the white flag, your kid is giggling, running naked into the Mediterranean with a pack of Spanish and French babies, and you can’t stop smiling.
Is it hard? 1000% yes. But it is worth it 2000%.
Before becoming a parent, I couldn’t understand why people traveled with kids. Honestly, I wasn’t even sure I wanted them. So you can imagine my disbelief. But now with this little person I love more than anything, I want her to see the world, even if it means moving at her pace. And by day five, when you finally get a full night’s sleep and feel human again, you’re grinning your way through the rest of the trip.
This was a doozy.
Two weeks, three cities, one wedding, too many croissants, and precisely zero full nights of sleep until the very end.. and I’d do it all again tomorrow. That’s the thing about travel: it rarely goes how you plan, especially with a toddler, but it always gives back more than it takes. The food, the people, the chaos, the little pockets of magic you stumble into all remind me why I keep booking the flights. Messy, exhausting, beautiful, unforgettable. Just the way I like it.
Sound Bites: AUGUST
Until next time, eat well!
xx Gina
Looks like a fabulous trip! I dream about the markets in France. 🤩